San Francisco's Local-Wine Complex

San Francisco and its immediate surrounds have never been more packed with places where a thirsty wine lover can sit down to a great glass of wine. Almost 20 years ago, I started keeping track of local wine bars, of which there were only a handful. Since then, that number has exploded to more than 60, and there are roughly 4,000 restaurants now. And, as the lean years of the pandemic fade into the rear-view mirror, wine lists are again showing variety and heft. Even so, San Francisco proves to be something of a conundrum for those who wish to drink local. In a region known for all but inventing the farm-to-table dining movement in the US, the locavore ethos has curiously never managed to pervade the wine-drinking culture. Nearly every wine list in the city will have some California wine on it, but only a few venues seem dedicated to featuring local wine.

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